Client in a navy custom jacket and pink shirt adjusting the lining
The Journal

Your first
custom suit.

Your first custom suit should be the most useful garment you own. That means making the safe choices well, and saving the bold ones for suit two.

Colour: navy or charcoal

Navy is the most versatile colour in tailoring. It works for interviews, weddings, client meetings and dinners, and pairs with brown or black shoes. Charcoal is a close second and slightly more formal. Save the windowpane check for later.

Cloth: mid-weight worsted wool

A mid-weight worsted, Super 110s to 130s, can be worn most of the year in Utah and stands up to weekly wear. Our Ascent tier is built around exactly this kind of cloth and is where most clients start. See choosing cloth for Utah.

Cut: two-piece, single-breasted, two buttons

A single-breasted, two-button jacket with a notch lapel of moderate width is timeless. Flap pockets work for business and can be tucked in for evening. Add a waistcoat if you want the option of a three-piece for weddings.

Details: keep the reveal inside

Want personality? Put it in the lining. A bold lining is invisible in a meeting and memorable when the jacket comes off. It is one of our clients' favourite details; see the gallery.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Choosing a trend lapel width or a very short jacket that will date quickly.
  • Choosing the finest, most delicate cloth for a suit you plan to wear every week.
  • Arriving without the shoes you will wear, so the trouser break cannot be set correctly.
  • Leaving it too late. Allow 5 to 8 weeks, and more for a wedding.

Then build from there

Your pattern stays on file, so suit two is faster and needs only one fitting. Many clients plan a capsule wardrobe: a suit, a few sport coats and shirts that all work together.

Quick Answers

In short.

What colour should my first custom suit be?

Navy, followed by charcoal. Both work across business, weddings and evenings.

Should my first suit be two-piece or three-piece?

A two-piece is the most versatile. Ordering a matching waistcoat gives you the three-piece option for weddings.

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